DAY 1

Gathering at the pre-tour hotel in Rouen’s historic center, you meet your guides, and after a short welcome meeting you set off for the picturesque port of Honfleur, driving along the Routes des Fruits, as its name implies, a region brimming with orchards. Upon reaching Jumièges, you drive onto a small car ferry crossing the River Seine, and continue through the countryside to the lovely Manoir d’Apreval, a family-owned estate surrounded by an abundant apple orchard, specializing in cider and Calvados liqueur. Cultivating a total of 17 varieties of apples, at harvest time, a restored press is used to make cider, which eventually also becomes Calvados after ageing in oak barrels.

After a tour of the estate and a buffet lunch you embark on your first walk, which begins at the Manoir d’Apreval and heads to the small village of Pennedepie, where you walk past the small church. Entering the Bois du Breuil, a nature reserve, walk along a forest trail with views down to the Seine Estuary on your left. This route also involves walking along country lanes, through oak forest, and you are frequently surrounded by apple trees. About one mile from Honfleur you reach the charming Notre Dame de Grace Chapel, a pilgrimage site for local fishermen. Once you have completed a visit inside this small chapel you can begin your descent into Honfleur, marveling at the broad views that extend over the River Seine as it flows out to sea, and the magnificent Normandy Bridge, which links Honfleur with the port of Le Havre. Walk down the Rue de Puits passing typical slate-shingled houses. Many of these views were depicted by late 19th-century painters, such as Monet and Gustave Courbet.

Reaching your enchanting hotel in the center of Honfleur, you may have time to discover this very pretty port town. Later, dinner is in a charming local bistro and the food here reflects the fertile countryside and nearby coast. Monks in Normandy began developing its famous cheeses as early as the 11th century, and dinner may conclude with a rich Pont l’Évêque, Livarot, or best known, Camembert.
Les Maisons de Léa, Honfleur

DAY 2

Awakening in the comfort of your historic hotel to a tantalizing breakfast with buttery croissants and homemade jams, your first stop is a small neighborhood store just around the corner from the hotel specializing in local, organic produce and regional delicacies. Here you assist the guide in choosing the contents of today’s picnic lunch—perhaps crusty fresh breads, tempting cheeses, pâtés, and local cider. You then drive over the Normandy Bridge and through the countryside of Pays de Caux, to the start of the day’s walk along a trail that gently descends through an oak forest, and then out in an open landscape of low bushes and gorse. Here you have your first glimpse of “La Manche”—the English Channel—and also begin to get your first views of the towering cliffs and rock formations of Étretat, a favorite subject of the Impressionist painter Monet. Walk along the trail that takes you on the top of the cliffs and towards the famous Manneporte rock arch, the Porte d’Aval, and the Aiguille or “needle.” The 19th-century French author Guy de Maupassant spent a good part of his childhood in the small fishing and resort town of Étretat. Here your hand-picked, mouth-wateringly delicious picnic lunch is consumed before returning on the path near the cliffs alongside the trail next to the oldest golf course in France.

Upon reaching your hotel, you have time to relax, perhaps even indulge in a spa treatment or hammam on site before a free dinner in Honfleur. There are plenty of restaurants to choose from. Perhaps you may prefer a gourmet meal, or you may simply wish to eat in a local crêperie.
Les Maisons de Léa, Honfleur

DAY 3

As the main focus is visiting the D-Day Beaches and the American Military Cemetery today, there will be minimal walking. Begin with a drive to a view over Arromanches, a resort town with a sandy beach, but no natural harbor, which became one of the world’s busiest ports in June 1944. It was here that Winston Churchill’s idea of using prefabricated floating ports was implemented in order to store supplies and ammunition for the Battle of Normandy, until the existing ports could be liberated from the Germans. You walk along a very short, grassy trail overlooking the remains of the artificial harbor, which was originally over 5 miles long, stretching from Tracy-sur-Mer to Asnelles-sur-Mer. After transferring in your private van to the town of Arromanches your guide begins the discussion of the D-Day Landings. Walk along a short stretch of beach up to the cliffs on the west side of the town. Once at the top of the cliffs, board your van once again and arrive at the site of the German bunkers and original guns situated on the 200-ft high cliffs that were used to defend the coast against the Allied Navy. These guns were designed to hit targets over 15 miles away, Omaha Beach among them.

After lunch in a local restaurant, you walk along the sands of Omaha Beach to the American Military Cemetery, where 9,387 American soldiers were buried, each marked with a white cross or Star of David—the first American cemetery on European soil in World War II. Your guide provides context about the battle, and why the casualties along Omaha Beach were far worse than other locations along the D-Day Beaches. It is indeed chilling to walk along the beach, imagining how Allied soldiers must have felt running inland toward the German positions on the nearby ridge.

After an extremely moving visit to the American Military Cemetery, you then transfer to the remote Cotentin Peninsula, which traces its name to the 4th-century Roman Emperor Constantius Chlorus; an enchanting area with unspoiled stretches of rocky coastline, sheltering tranquil bays, and quaint villages. You are warmly welcomed in your charming seaside hotel in the town of Barneville-Carteret, two coastal resort towns separated by a river estuary, with the British island of Jersey just off the coast. A buffet dinner is included at the hotel this evening.
Hôtel des Isles, Barneville-Carteret

DAY 4

This morning you wake to the sound of seabirds and the smell of the salty air. On offer is an early morning walk to the local estuary where you can view, depending on the time of year, the abundant birdlife, such as different species of geese, curlews, herons, egrets, and ducks.

Later this morning, a short drive brings you to La Hague, meaning “high cape” in French, the Cotentin Peninsula’s westernmost point. After a picnic lunch of local cured meats, cheeses, breads, and pastries, you set off on a bracing walk along a coastal trail lined with wildflowers. You are graced by views towards the British Isle of Alderney, close to the French coast. The seas here have some of the strongest currents in Europe, and this local one is called the Raz Blanchel. Approaching a small lighthouse, you soon arrive in the small harbor of Gouy. After a welcome aperitif, you then walk into the village where you enjoy an early dinner at a small restaurant highlighting fresh seafood in its flavorful cuisine; perhaps a “cotriade” or fish stew will be one of tonight’s offerings.
Hôtel des Isles, Barneville-Carteret

DAY 5

The itinerary today takes you from Normandy into Brittany, starting with a drive to the Baie du Mont St. Michel, known for its extreme tides. Depending on the lunar pull, the difference between low and high tide can be as much as 50 feet—the third largest in the world. A short stop en route provides a panoramic view of the bay and the pyramid-shaped island monastery of Mont St. Michel, before arriving at Le Bec d'Andaine where you meet your official local guide, necessary for walking over the bay due to the tides. Begin walking through the sand dunes where, in the spring, many beautiful orchids may be found. With broad views over salt marshes, you gradually cross the three rivers of the bay: the Selune, the See, and the Couesnon; the latter is the official border between Normandy and Brittany. Your goal during the first part of the walk is to reach Tomberlaine Island, a protected sanctuary for nesting shell ducks, marine and brown seagulls, and white egrets. From here there are great views of Mont St. Michel itself, and perhaps you may see a group of pilgrims walking along the sands, holding large wooden crosses, or people riding on horseback.

After a simple picnic lunch and on completing the walk, you drive over the border into Brittany (although you have already been in Brittany once on foot today). Your lovely hotel overlooks Cancale Bay, with spectacular views of Mont St. Michel. Dinner tonight at the hotel is a true gastronomic experience—the hotel’s chef is the celebrated Olivier Roellinger, one of only a few French chefs to have earned three Michelin stars. Using all local and in-season produce, Olivier is also known for meticulously incorporating spices from all over the world in his stellar cuisine. The warm wood-paneled dining room is both elegant and comfortable, reflecting your hosts’ passion for good food and hospitality. Dinner may start with oysters, either plain or some delicately seasoned, and for a main course, perhaps lamb that graze in the nearby salt meadows, or scallop “brochettes” simply seasoned with virgin olive oil and mild chili pepper.
Château Richeux, Saint-Mélour-des-Ondes

DAY 6

This morning you may either choose to relax in the lovely sitting rooms of the hotel or you may take an optional walk along a trail starting at the Pointe du Grouin, showcasing the Breton coastline at its best. Just offshore is the Îles des Landes, a wild island sheltering a colony of giant black cormorants. You arrive on foot back at your seaside hotel.

This afternoon (after a free lunch in the town) you explore Mont St. Michel, one of the most impressive constructions of the Middle Ages—a quintessential image of northern France and also a UNESCO World Heritage site. A small island just a half mile off the coast reached by a causeway, your guide leads you through the narrow “back” streets, winding your way to the top of the mount at the door of the Benedictine Abbey dating from the 8th century. The majority of the buildings were built, however, in the 11th century, with the church’s main façade dating from the 12th century. You learn about the lives of medieval monks and village life, with a particular emphasis on the island’s extraordinarily preserved architecture.

Later you gather for a sumptuous meal in a local restaurant to toast your exploration of France’s enchanting northern coast. Tonight’s menu might start with delicately smoked fish and new potatoes followed by a beef filet from Normandy or a fresh fish fillet seasoned with “peppers of the world” and kefir lime essence, and finishing with Norman or Breton delectable cheeses or treats from the kitchen’s pastry chef.
Château Richeux, Saint-Mélour-des-Ondes

DAY 7

After another delicious breakfast, check out of your hotel, and return to Normandy to view the fabulous Bayeux Tapestry, which was probably commissioned in the 1070s and commemorated the 1066 Norman conquest of England. The tapestry shows, scene by scene, the story of William the Conqueror and Harold, Earl of Wessex, the men who led the Norman and Saxon armies in 1066. William's defeat of Harold at the Battle of Hastings ensured the success of the Norman invasion of England. The tapestry is actually not a tapestry at all, but embroidered cloth and is 230 feet long.

After this visit you drive to Normandy’s second largest city, Caen, rich in history from the time of William the Conqueror, and also important in the D-Day landings. In fact, you stop for lunch in Falaise, at William the Conqueror’s castle, on a rocky escarpment that was a prosperous town at the time of his birth in the early 11th century. You proceed to the departure point in Caen where you say “au revoir” to an enchanting region and newfound friends.

Itinerary Changes

Please bear in mind that this is a typical itinerary, and the actual activities, sites, and accommodations may vary due to season, special events, weather, or transportation schedules. We reserve the right to alter the itinerary since tour arrangements are made up to a year in advance, and unforeseen circumstances that mandate change may arise. Itinerary changes are made to improve the tour and your experience.

Nights 1 & 2

Les Maisons de Léa
Honfleur, France

A charming hotel in the heart of Honfleur composed of a restored salt warehouse and three 16th-century houses, with individually decorated rooms, and a “hammam"-type steam room.

Nights 3 & 4

Hôtel des Isles
Barneville-Carteret, France

A beachside resort hotel with views of the English Channel and Cape Carteret. Enjoy the large comfortable rooms, inviting common areas and decks, pool, and Jacuzzi.

Nights 5 & 6

Château Richeux
Saint-Mélour-des-Ondes, France

A luxurious 1920s villa with antique and original furnishings, directly overlooking the water with views of Mont St. Michel; featuring beautiful guestrooms, warm and elegant common rooms, and its renowned restaurant featuring the cuisine of a three-star Michelin chef.

Please note that this is a sample hotel itinerary for this tour. While these exact hotels are featured on most departures, we occasionally reserve other hotels of similar style and quality. If you are currently booked on a Country Walkers adventure, a hotel itinerary has been sent to you for your exact departure date. Please call Country Walkers at 800.464.9255 if you have any questions about the exact hotels selected for any of our tours.

Arnaud Guérin

Born and raised in Normandy, Arnaud is a geologist, specializing in volcanology and the environment. He is also a professional photographer, and an author of books on photography and nature. He has been guiding for the past ten years and in his free time enjoys sea kayaking, mountain biking, sailing, and cooking.

Lucie Hoffmann

Lucie is a qualified French National Guide of Culture and readily shares her expertise of the history and culture of both Normandy and Brittany. Living in Bayeux, Normandy, she searches flea markets for antiques and pottery in her spare time. She is also a prolific gardener.